Skip to content
I Buy PostcardsOne collector, buying by mail nationwide

Guides · What they are worth

Old postcard price guide

Postcard prices vary enormously, but they are not random. Each kind of card tends to sell within a broad range, and a few factors decide where in that range a particular card lands.

Rough retail ranges for single cards in decent condition: common chrome cards from the 1950s onward, pennies to about a dollar; most linens, under a dollar to a few dollars; common printed views from before 1930, under a dollar to a few dollars; good small-town printed views, a few dollars to around ten; common Christmas and greeting cards, a dollar or two; early embossed Halloween cards, roughly ten dollars to well over a hundred; real photo postcards of small towns, businesses and events, commonly ten to fifty dollars, with exceptional cards in the hundreds. A buyer of whole collections pays a fraction of retail.

Have old postcards to sell? Free quote by email, free insured label, and nothing ships until you agree. Get a free quote

How to read this guide

The ranges below are broad and approximate. They describe what individual cards in reasonable condition typically sell for to collectors, based on the kinds of results seen in sold listings and at shows. They are not offers, and they change over time with collector interest. Within any range, a specific card can sell for much less or much more depending on its exact subject, place and condition.

One more thing: retail prices are what collectors pay for individual cards that someone has identified, photographed, described and listed. A buyer of a whole collection takes on all of that work, plus the cards that never sell, so whole-collection prices are always a fraction of the sum of retail prices.

Typical ranges by type

Type of cardTypical single-card rangeWhat lifts it
Chrome tourist cards, 1950s onwardPennies to about $1Roadside businesses, diners, motels, early advertising
Linen cards, about 1930 to early 1950sUnder $1 to a few dollarsRoadside, diners, gas stations, advertising, big-letter cards of small towns
Common printed views before 1930Under $1 to a few dollarsSmaller towns, street scenes with activity
Good printed small-town viewsA few dollars to about $10Depots, businesses, people and vehicles
Common greetings and ChristmasAbout $1 to a few dollarsUnusual Santas, fine embossing, hold-to-light
Early embossed HalloweenRoughly $10 to well over $100Known publishers and artists, mechanical cards, great condition
Studio portrait real photosAbout $1 to a few dollarsUnusual subjects, costumes, pets, identified people
Real photo small towns and main streetsCommonly $10 to $50Small places, activity, clear captions
Real photo occupations, events, interiorsCommonly $15 to $75 and upRare subjects, crisp images, identified places
Exceptional raritiesHundreds or moreUnique subjects in fine condition

What moves a card up or down

Real photo or printed. The single biggest factor. A real photo version of a scene is usually worth several times the printed version.

Place. Small and specific beats famous and general. A crossroads village is usually worth more than a state capital.

Subject and activity. Work, vehicles, events, interiors and identifiable businesses all raise value. Empty landscapes and generic scenes do not.

Condition. Creases across the image, missing corners, stains and album residue can halve a card's value or worse. A message and postmark on the back generally do not hurt. See the condition guide.

Demand for the topic. Halloween, railroads and early automobiles have deep collector bases. Some subjects have very few.

Why price guides disagree

Printed price guides date quickly, and online asking prices are often far above what cards actually sell for. The most reliable evidence is sold results for comparable cards: the same town and subject, real photo or printed, in similar condition. Even then, two sales of the same card can differ widely depending on who happened to be bidding.

Valuing a whole collection

A collection's value is not the total of the ranges above. In practice, a buyer estimates how many cards fall into each group, applies a realistic wholesale value to each group, and looks closely at the cards that could be worth more individually. That is how I quote: one number for the whole collection, with a short note on what drove it. The values guide walks through a worked example.

Three examples of how the factors combine

A printed view of a famous hotel, around 1910, light wear. Common subject, printed, made in large numbers. Typically at the bottom of its range, perhaps under a dollar to a couple of dollars, regardless of age.

A real photo view of a small-town main street with a horse and wagon, clear caption, very good condition. Scarce, identified, with activity. Comfortably in the real photo street-scene range, and potentially higher if the town is very small or the view has never sold before.

An embossed Halloween card, around 1910, with a jack-o'-lantern figure, bright color, sharp corners. Strong topic, fine printing, good condition. Toward the upper part of the Halloween range, and higher still if it is from a known series or artist.

Notice that age was similar in all three. Subject, method and condition made the difference.

Using this guide responsibly

Price ranges are a starting point for understanding a collection, not a basis for pricing every card. If you plan to sell individually, check sold results card by card. If you plan to sell the collection whole, the useful question is not what each card might fetch at retail but what a buyer will pay for all of them together, and that is what a quote tells you.

If your collection holds cards that do not fit neatly into any row of the table, such as novelty materials, foreign cards or unusual topics, that is normal. Describe them and include a photo.

Lots and bulk prices

Common cards are usually traded in lots rather than singly: a hundred printed views of one state, a box of linens, a stack of greetings. Lot prices work out to a small amount per card, which reflects how slowly common cards sell. That is the honest economics behind any whole-collection quote: the common cards are valued at lot prices, and the better cards at prices closer to what individual collectors pay, less the cost and risk of selling them.

Questions people ask

What is the average price of an old postcard?

There is no meaningful average, because the spread is so wide. Most cards sell for little; a small minority sell for a lot.

Are there postcard value websites?

Sold-listing searches on major marketplaces are the most practical tool. Collector club publications and specialist dealers are also good sources for particular topics.

How do I price postcards to sell?

Find sold examples of the same subject and place, adjust for condition, and price singly only the cards that are clearly identifiable and wanted. Group the rest into lots, or sell the collection whole.

Sources and further reading

Ready to sell? Compare where to sell old postcards, or see how to sell old postcards step by step.

Frequently asked questions

What are old postcards worth?
Most printed views, and most cards from the 1930s on, are worth well under a dollar each in quantity. Real photo postcards of identifiable small towns, businesses, occupations, transportation and events are often worth several dollars to tens of dollars each, and rare ones more. The values guide explains why.
Why not sell them one at a time online myself?
You can, and for the best cards it may bring more per card. It also means identifying, photographing, listing, answering questions and shipping every card separately, and many listings never sell. Selling the whole collection at once trades some of that upside for one fair payment and no work.
Do you buy chrome or modern postcards?
Inside a larger older collection, yes, I take them with everything else. A collection of only glossy chrome cards from about 1960 onward has very little resale value, so I usually decline those on their own.
Are postcards with writing on the back worth less?
Generally no. Most collectors are happy with used cards, and a message or a clear postmark can add interest. What lowers value is damage to the front: creases, tears, stains, tape or glue.
What if I do not like the offer?
Then you simply say no. Before anything ships, declining costs nothing. After the cards arrive, if what I find differs from the description and my offer changes, you can decline the revised offer and I ship everything back to you free, insured.

Read all 29 questions and answers

You never pay to ship, and you never sell at a price you didn't agree to

Once you accept the quote, I email a prepaid, insured shipping label. When the postcards arrive I go through them and pay you within two business days.

If what arrives is different from the photos and my offer has to change, you can say no, and I ship everything back to you at my expense.

  • PayPal
  • Check by mail
  • Zelle
  • Venmo
Ready to hear what your postcards are worth to me?Describe them, add a few photos, and the quote comes by email. Free, and nothing ships until you agree.

A question first?

Something here you want to ask about?

Send a question about a card, an album or a whole estate. You don't need to be ready to sell to ask.

Ready? Describe your collection

I reply by email, usually within two business days. Selling? The quote form lets you add photos.