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Guides · Identifying and caring for postcards

How to store old postcards

Most damage to old postcards happens slowly, in storage. A few simple choices about where and how you keep a collection protect its condition and its value.

The essentials: keep postcards somewhere dry, at steady room temperature, out of direct sunlight, and away from attics, basements, garages and outside walls. Store loose cards upright in acid-free boxes or in archival polypropylene or polyester sleeves, and leave cards in their original albums if they are mounted safely. Avoid rubber bands, paper clips, tape, glue and stacking heavy objects on albums. Never clean, trim or flatten old cards.

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Where to keep a collection

The right location matters more than any product:

  • Dry. Humidity causes mold, foxing, curling and stuck pages. A closet in the living area of a home is far better than a basement.
  • Stable temperature. Attics and garages swing between hot and cold, which stresses paper and photographs.
  • Dark. Sunlight fades inks and photographs and makes paper brittle. Keep albums and boxes away from windows.
  • Away from outside walls, pipes and floors that can be damp or flood.

If a collection has been stored in a basement or garage, simply moving it into a dry interior closet is the single most helpful thing you can do.

Storing loose cards

Upright in boxes. Stand cards on their long edge in acid-free boxes sized for postcards, filled snugly so cards do not slump, but not so tight they crush. Long boxes with dividers, like those dealers use, work well for large collections.

Sleeves. Clear archival sleeves made of polypropylene or polyester (such as Mylar) protect individual cards from handling and dust. Avoid PVC sleeves, which can release chemicals over time; archival sleeves are usually labeled acid-free and PVC-free.

Never use rubber bands, which perish and stain, paper clips, which dent and rust, or sticky notes, which leave residue.

Storing albums

Old albums are best left as they are, with the cards in place. Store albums flat or upright on a shelf like books, not stacked under heavy objects, which cracks spines and flattens embossed cards. If an album is falling apart, keep its pages and cards together in order inside a box rather than trying to repair it with tape or glue.

If you want to rehouse cards from a damaged album for your own collection, do it carefully, and only with cards that come free easily. Never pull glued cards. If you are planning to sell, leave the album exactly as it is; a buyer can value it in place.

Handling

Handle cards by their edges with clean, dry hands. Avoid touching the surface of real photo postcards, which can be marked by skin oils. Do not eat or drink near a collection.

Dealing with problems

Mold. Fuzzy or spotted growth, often with a musty smell. Separate affected cards into a paper envelope away from the rest, keep them dry, and do not try to clean them yourself. Mention mold to anyone evaluating the collection.

Curling. Usually from humidity changes. Do not try to flatten cards with heat or weight, which can crack the surface. Storing them upright in a stable environment often helps.

Stuck cards. Cards stuck together or to album pages from damp. Leave them; forcing them apart tears the surfaces.

Pests. Silverfish and other insects eat paper and glue. Keep collections clean, dry and off the floor.

What not to do

  • Do not clean cards with erasers, water or cleaning products.
  • Do not trim cards to fit albums or frames.
  • Do not laminate cards.
  • Do not repair tears with tape.
  • Do not soak off stamps.
  • Do not write on cards, even in pencil.

Each of these permanently lowers a card's value.

Framing and display

If you want to display a favorite card, use a frame with UV-filtering glass and acid-free mats, hang it away from direct sunlight, and do not glue or tape the card to the backing. Use photo corners instead. Rotate displayed cards occasionally so no single card fades.

Choosing boxes and sleeves

If you are buying storage supplies, look for products described as archival, acid-free and lignin-free for boxes and dividers, and PVC-free for plastic sleeves. Postcard-size sleeves come in a few sizes; standard postcards fit the most common size, while continental-size chromes and some oversized cards need larger sleeves. For a large collection, long boxes with removable dividers let you file cards by state, town or topic, the way dealers do, and keep them upright and supported.

Labeling and organizing

Write labels on dividers, sleeves or box ends, never on the cards themselves. If you know who collected the cards, where they came from, or how they were organized, write that on a note inside the box. That information is part of a collection's story and is easily lost when it changes hands.

Insurance and records

For a valuable collection, keep photographs and a simple inventory, even just a rough count by type, somewhere separate from the collection itself. If anything ever happens to it, those records help with insurance and with remembering what you had. A formal appraisal may be appropriate for a high-value collection; see postcard appraisals.

Questions people ask

What is the best way to store old postcards?

Upright in acid-free boxes or in archival sleeves, in a dry, dark, stable place indoors.

Are plastic sleeves safe for postcards?

Archival polypropylene and polyester sleeves are. Avoid PVC.

Can I store postcards in a photo album?

Yes, if it is archival quality, with no sticky magnetic pages, which damage cards over time.

Should I take old postcards out of their original album?

Not if you plan to sell. If keeping them, only remove cards that come free easily.

Before you sell

If you are planning to sell, the storage advice is even simpler: stop any further damage by moving the collection somewhere dry, and otherwise leave everything exactly as it is. Buyers value collections as found. The selling guide explains the next steps.

Should I use cotton gloves to handle postcards? Clean, dry hands are generally fine for printed cards if you hold them by the edges. Gloves can reduce dexterity and make dropping cards more likely; for real photographs, avoid touching the image surface either way.

Sources and further reading

Ready to sell? Compare where to sell old postcards, or see how to sell old postcards step by step.

Frequently asked questions

How can I tell a real photo postcard from a printed one?
Look at the picture under a magnifier. A printed card shows tiny dots or a screen pattern; a real photograph is smooth, continuous gray. Real photo cards often have a paper maker's name such as AZO or VELOX in the stamp box, and many have white hand-lettered captions on the picture.
What is an RPPC?
A real photo postcard: an actual photograph developed on photo paper that had a postcard back printed on it. They were made from about 1903 into the 1950s, often by local photographers in small numbers, and they are the most collected kind of American postcard. See the RPPC page.
What if I have no idea what I have?
That's a very common situation, and it's fine. Describe what you can see in plain words (albums or boxes, roughly how many, black and white photographs or colored prints) and add a few photos. I'll tell you what it is.
Are postcards with writing on the back worth less?
Generally no. Most collectors are happy with used cards, and a message or a clear postmark can add interest. What lowers value is damage to the front: creases, tears, stains, tape or glue.
What are old postcards worth?
Most printed views, and most cards from the 1930s on, are worth well under a dollar each in quantity. Real photo postcards of identifiable small towns, businesses, occupations, transportation and events are often worth several dollars to tens of dollars each, and rare ones more. The values guide explains why.

Read all 29 questions and answers

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If what arrives is different from the photos and my offer has to change, you can say no, and I ship everything back to you at my expense.

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